Context
Why there is a live volcano off the coast of Kos
Nisyros is one link in the South Aegean volcanic arc, the
curve of volcanic centres running from the Saronic Gulf through Milos and Santorini to the
Turkish coast. The arc exists because the African plate is being forced beneath the Aegean.
Kos sits on the same geology — hence its thermal springs.
The northern half of Nisyros is a caldera: a collapse basin several
kilometres across, formed when the roof of an emptied magma chamber dropped. Hence the
island's odd shape from the boat — a ring of steep hills around a hidden flat plain, the
Lakki, where the craters are. Stefanos is the largest and youngest, and it is a
hydrothermal crater, blasted out by superheated groundwater flashing to steam.
That distinction decides what you see. There is no lava on Nisyros. What there is, is a live
hydrothermal system: groundwater meeting hot rock a few hundred metres down and venting
sulphurous steam through the crater floor. The last violent episodes were hydrothermal
explosions in the late nineteenth century, and the island has been monitored ever since.
The Greeks explained it with a fight. In the war between gods and giants, Poseidon is said to
have torn a lump off Kos and thrown it onto the giant Polybotes to pin him
down; the island is the lump and the rumbling is the giant. One of the craters still carries
the name Polyvotis.
People still live here — a few hundred, between Mandraki, the rim villages of Emporios and
Nikia, and the small port of Pali. For how a volcano day compares with the other off-island
trips, see the excursions overview, or the
3-island cruise guide for the northern neighbours most
visitors choose instead. The Kos boat trips home page has the wider picture.