Context
Five layers of Kos Town, and the earthquake that revealed them
Kos Town has been the island's port since antiquity, founded as the new capital of Kos in
366 BC and prosperous enough by the Hellenistic period to build the colonnaded quarter you now
walk through. It was a working Greek city in the age of Hippocrates, whose
Asklepion sits in the hills 4 km behind it, and a wealthy Roman
provincial town after that — Casa Romana and the Odeon are the Roman town's surviving domestic
and civic set pieces.
Then come the layers that changed the skyline. The Knights of St John, based
on Rhodes, held Kos from the early 14th century and fortified the harbour mouth against the
Ottoman advance; Neratzia Castle is their double-walled answer, and much of
its bulk is built from recycled ancient marble taken from the ruins around it. The Ottomans
took the island in 1523 and stayed almost four centuries, leaving the two mosques and the
fountains. Italy took the Dodecanese in 1912 and administered Kos until the Second World War.
On 23 April 1933 an earthquake destroyed most of the town. That catastrophe is
the reason Kos Town looks the way it does. The Italian administration rebuilt to a new plan —
wide avenues, arcaded squares, the covered market on Eleftherias Square, the Archaeological
Museum — and simultaneously handed its archaeologists an unrepeatable opportunity: a flattened
city centre with the ancient one directly beneath. They excavated the harbour quarter and the
western zone through the 1930s and, instead of building over them again, laid the new town out
around them.
The result is unusual. Most Mediterranean towns hide their ancient core under later building;
Kos put a fence-free archaeological park in the middle of its shopping district — which is
both why it photographs so well and why restoration work is permanent. Walk the route once
with that in mind and the town stops being scattered sights and becomes one legible city.
Then take it further: up to the Asklepion, out to the
beaches, or onto the water from the quay you started on, using the
boat trips guide or the island hub.